Challenge Instructions
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Four on the Floor
Challenge Brief
Capture a pet in standing position. All feet must be touching the same surface and the pet should not be in motion. This is a portrait challenge, so special attention should be paid to expression and posing. We’re looking for a single pet only in this challenge, and no owners/people.
Overview
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When you’re photographing pets – especially dogs – it’s super easy to default to a sitting pose. Most dogs have been trained to sit for treats or praise, so it’s often the first thing they offer.
But standing poses can actually be more flattering and natural, especially for bigger breeds who might find sitting uncomfortable or a bit awkward. A nice, balanced standing pose shows off the pet’s body structure and makes them look confident, alert, and engaged.
Because this is a standing challenge, we’re looking for all feet firmly on the ground – no mid-step moments, no action shots.
The pet should be still and balanced, standing on a single surface – we’re not looking for a “paws-up” pose for this challenge.
Posing is key here. The way the pet’s body is angled, the direction they’re looking, and how engaged they are all make a big difference. These choices help you tell a story with your image, create mood, and guide the viewer’s eye through your composition.
Generally, it’s a good idea to leave some space in the direction the pet is looking – that helps create balance and flow. And don’t forget to leave a bit of room under the paws too. Cropping too tightly at the bottom can make the image feel cramped and uncomfortable.
Like all our challenges, we’re giving guidance with dogs in mind, but you can submit an image of any type of pet – as long as it’s just one animal and no humans.
So, let’s get those four paws on the floor and create an image that shows off your subject’s best side!
Location
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You can shoot this challenge pretty much anywhere – outdoors on location, indoors, or even in a studio.Â
The main thing is that the surface the pet is standing on should be clearly visible.
If you’re shooting outdoors, think about how you can use the environment to give your image a sense of place. Including a bit of the background can help set the scene and add interest to the overall composition.
Surfaces like grass, dirt, sand, pavement, wooden floors, or carpet are all good options. You can also experiment with more natural textures like long grass or leafy ground cover – just make sure the pet’s legs aren’t completely hidden.
This is especially important when photographing smaller breeds or those with short legs. We want to clearly see that they’re standing on solid ground.
It’s also worth being mindful of where the pet is placed in the landscape. If they’re standing in a dip or low spot and you’re shooting from higher up, you’ll end up looking down on them – and that can make them look smaller or less impressive.
To really capture that epic, hero-style vibe, try positioning them on a high point instead. A small hill, rock, or sand dune can elevate the pet and allow you to shoot from a lower angle looking up, which gives a much more powerful feel.
Lastly, avoid uneven surfaces that make the pet look off-balance, and keep an eye out for any distracting backgrounds that might pull attention away from your subject.
LightingÂ
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You have plenty of flexibility when it comes to lighting for this challenge. Natural light, artificial light – both can work beautifully. What matters most is that it’s used with intention to create a well-lit portrait.
Soft Light
Soft, even light is generally your best friend here. It helps highlight the pet’s body structure without creating harsh shadows, and if your subject is looking at the camera, soft light is usually the most flattering choice.
Full Sun
Full sun can work, but you’ll want to shoot when the sun is low in the sky – like early morning or late afternoon. Midday sun tends to create deep shadows under the chin, across the body, and over the eyes, which isn’t ideal.
When the sun’s lower, the light is warmer, which can add a lovely feel to your image. Just be mindful of where you – or anyone else nearby – are standing. You don’t want shadows falling across the subject.Â
Also, remember that staring into direct sun is just as uncomfortable for dogs as it is for us. They’ll squint, and that’s not quite the look we’re going for. If the light’s harsh, maybe go for a pose that doesn’t need direct eye contact.
Backlighting
Backlighting can add drama and help separate the subject from the background, but be careful not to blow out the highlights or lose detail in the shadows. A little fill light or reflective surface can help here if needed.
Side Light
Sidelight can also be striking and moody, but if your subject is looking at the camera, it’s often not the most flattering. In that case, it’s best to position the dog so they’re facing toward the light, not away from it.
Catchlights
Whatever lighting you use, just make sure the face – especially the eyes – is well-lit. Catchlights in the eyes can make all the difference and really bring your portrait to life.
Handling
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Handling is key for capturing a successful and natural standing pose.
Making sure the dog feels safe and comfortable starts with the surface they’re standing on. It should be stable and secure – no wobbly rocks, slippery tiles, or sketchy logs. Look for positive body language.Â
The dog should appear balanced and relaxed, with an engaged expression. Keep an eye out for signs of discomfort like cowering, tucked tails, or splayed legs – those are cues that something’s not quite right.
Now, most dogs haven’t actually been taught to stand and stay. It’s just not something we ask of them very often – unless you happen to be working with a show dog. In that case, congratulations! You’ve hit the jackpot. Show dogs are pros at this, often “stacking” themselves automatically – lining up those paws and standing proudly to be admired by their adoring fans.
For dogs that do not already know “stand” – teaching this command before attempting the shot will make it a lot easier to get some more advanced poses, with precise angles and positioning to show the dog off at their very best.
If you have a bit of time and don’t mind putting in some effort beforehand, or perhaps you’re photographing your own dog, this is definitely something worth considering. We found a great video on YouTube that walks you through how to teach it, so feel free to check that out if you want to give it a go.
For an untrained dog, getting a standing pose usually means doing a little wrangling and working with the dog’s natural behaviour. The tricky bit? Most dogs default to sitting as soon as treats come out – it’s the first thing they learn in puppy school, and they know it scores them points. “Look! I’m sitting! I’m such a good boy!”
This is where treats can actually work against you. So for dogs who instantly sit when they think they’re being rewarded, it’s best to ditch the treats for a moment and instead try to catch them in a standing moment.
You’ll definitely want a handler for this challenge, and it’s usually easiest with the dog on a reasonably short leash. Shooting with a longer lens gives you the space you need while keeping the handler close.
Before you start, take the time to clearly explain what you want the handler to do – communication is everything here.
Ask them to walk the dog forward and then stop at a pre-chosen spot. At that point, with no cues or interaction, most dogs will just pause and stand naturally in front of the handler. They might have a little sniff around – that’s totally fine. Instruct the handler to stay still, keep their feet planted, and ignore the dog entirely.
The goal here is to let the dog settle into a neutral standing position without being asked or corrected. The handler becomes a kind of hitching post – no commands, no fuss.
Once the dog is standing calmly, the handler can quietly move out of the way – just enough so they’re no longer directly behind the dog.Â
They should hold the leash straight up and out of the frame as much as possible. This makes it much easier to remove them in post-processing.
If you want eye contact with the camera, wait until the dog is nicely posed, then make your best ridiculous noise or use a keyword to grab their attention – you might even score a head tilt. If they’re not responding, having the owner with you can help. Ask them to bring their face close to the lens – yes, you might have to get a bit cosy – to create the impression of strong eye contact with the camera.
If you’re going for a shot where the dog is looking away from the camera, have the owner or helper get their attention in that direction.
We’ll talk more about posing and expression in the next section.
If the dog sits down, don’t stress – don’t try to physically lift their back end. Just circle around and try again. You can repeat the whole process as many times as needed to catch a nice, natural stand.
So go at the dog’s pace, keep things light and fun, and remember – whether they know the “stand” command or not, you can get that beautiful, natural pose.
In this next segment, I’ll show you how I worked through this exact scenario with Bandit – a serial sitter – in one of my RealShoots episodes. You’ll see how patience, a bit of know-how, and a whole lot of positivity can help you capture that perfect standing portrait.
Technique
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As we mentioned in the handling section, working with a dog that actually knows the “stand” command makes things a whole lot easier. You’ll have more control and can get a bit more deliberate and creative with your posing. That said, you can still achieve great standing poses with an untrained dog – and in some cases, they’ll offer it naturally without any direction at all!
First up, let’s take a look at a few key things to think about when it comes to posing.
Body Position
There are three main ways you can position a standing subject in relation to the camera:
- Straight-on stance – This gives you a strong, powerful, and symmetrical look. It’s bold, and it’s simple.
- Side-on stance – This can add elegance and flow to your composition and really shows off the dog’s body shape.
- 3/4 stance – One of our favourites! It gives the image more depth and dimension, while still showing off lots of the dog.
Leg Placement
No matter which direction the dog is facing, take a moment to look at their legs. Ideally, you want all legs to be visible.
Try to avoid overlaps – when legs blend together, it can look like the dog is missing a limb, and it tends to flatten the image. Aim for separation and clarity so the legs are clearly defined.
Also, definitely don’t crop through the feet. Always leave some breathing room under the paws – it just feels more comfortable and balanced.
Body Shape and Angles
A side-on pose with the dog looking in the same direction can feel quite formal.
That works well if you’re going for a conformation-style image, but in a portrait it can sometimes feel a bit… meh.
To add more interest, try working in a curve. You can do this by having the dog face one way with their body, and look in the opposite direction with their head. This twist adds movement and life to the image.
If you’re sticking with the straight body-and-head combo, try spicing things up with more dramatic lighting – like sidelight – and make sure the dog is facing the light so the light on their face is even.
Head Placement and Expression
Where the pet is looking plays a big part in how the image feels. Their gaze helps engage the viewer and can guide the eye through the frame. If they’re looking at the camera, aim for direct eye contact. Slightly off-camera glances can sometimes feel a bit awkward or unintentional – or even unsettling in some cases.
Whether the dog is looking at the camera or off to the side, you’ll get the most dynamic pose when the ears are up and alert, facing forward.
And yes, even floppy ears can still look alert!
Of course, that doesn’t mean the subject always has to be looking up – downward gazes can also work if you’re going for a particular mood or narrative. Just keep in mind that it’s harder to get good catchlights when the head is tilted down.
Composition
Now let’s talk about composition. The awesome thing about working with pets, is that you can use their pose and the direction of their gaze to guide your framing choices.
If they’re facing you, looking straight at the camera, a centred composition often works best. It creates a calm, balanced image – just make sure the background and surroundings support that symmetry.
If the dog is in a 3/4 or side-on pose, leave extra space in the direction they’re facing. The rule of thirds is a good guide here.
If they’re standing and looking in the same direction, there’s a lot of energy pushing that way – so leave even more space to let that energy flow. It helps the image feel more open and intentional.
On the flip side, if they’re standing one way and looking the other, those two directions can balance each other out nicely. In that case, centering the subject can actually work really well.
Whatever pose you go with, make sure there’s enough space around the dog. As a general rule for full-body shots, try to leave about twice as much space above the head as below the feet.
And if they’re looking up or down, leave extra space in that direction too – it helps the composition feel more natural.
Get down!
One last tip – get down to their level. Or even lower.Â
Shooting from the dog’s eye level, or with the camera right on the ground, pulls the viewer into their world and makes for a much more dynamic, immersive image.
It also helps reduce distractions in the middle ground, and it brings any horizon lines lower in the frame – which means they’re less likely to chop through awkward parts of the dog’s body like the neck or head.
TechnicalÂ
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Let’s talk technical stuff – but don’t worry, we’ll keep it simple and practical.
Lenses
First up, lens choice.Â
A wide-angle lens can stretch out the body a bit and exaggerate perspective, which can be a really fun and creative look. On the other hand, a longer lens will compress the background and give you that classic portrait feel.
If you’re photographing a dog that’s a little on the rounder side, a wide-angle lens can actually help emphasise their head and slim down their body.
A longer lens can also be easier if you’ve got a handler helping to position the dog, since you can hang back and shoot from a distance. But if you’re working directly with the dog yourself, using a shorter lens can mean you’re within close range for getting the dog’s attention and rewarding them with treats or toys. It really depends on your setup and your style – go with whatever works for you.
Settings
Now, on to settings.
For portrait-style images, we recommend using a shutter speed of at least 1/500 of a second. That helps freeze any little movements and avoids motion blur – because even in a standing pose, dogs don’t stand perfectly still.
Next, think about depth of field. Do you want the whole dog in focus? Or just the eyes and head?
It’s a creative decision, but it can make a big difference – especially in simpler images like those taken in a studio with a plain background.
In a studio, you’ve also got more control over your light, which means you can use a smaller aperture like f/8 or f/11 to get that front-to-back sharpness. Just keep in mind that your shutter speed will usually be limited to your flash sync speed – often around 1/250 of a second, unless you’re using high-speed sync. That’s totally fine though, because the flash itself is fast enough to freeze the moment, especially for a static standing pose like this.
If you’re shooting outdoors, a shallower depth of field can help create a nice soft background and blur out any distractions. A wide aperture, like f/2.8, will do the trick. You can also use a longer lens to compress the perspective and throw the background even more out of focus. Or move the dog further from the background to help it blur out more. Or – and this is the magic combo – do all three, for a super soft and dreamy background.
Whatever setup you go with, the two most important things are: make sure the eyes are in sharp focus, and avoid motion blur. Get those right, and you’re well on your way to a great shot.
Troubleshooting
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"I can’t get the dog to stand."
Totally normal – most dogs default to a sit the moment something is asked of them. It’s often the first thing they’re taught, so it becomes their go-to move.
First, check that the surface is stable and comfortable. If it feels slippery or weird under their paws, they’re less likely to want to stay standing.
If the dog doesn’t know “stand,” don’t try lifting their back end – that usually just stresses them out. Instead, have the handler walk them forward and stop at your chosen spot. Most dogs will naturally pause in a standing position. The handler should stay still and ignore them – no commands, no attention – just let the dog settle.
When they do stand nicely, that’s your moment. Get your shot! If they sit, no worries – just try again. A bit of patience and a few repeats usually does the trick.
"The pose looks awkward."
If the dog looks a bit stiff or unbalanced, start by checking their legs – make sure all four are visible and not overlapping. Hidden or bunched legs can make the pose feel off.
Also, check the surface. If it’s uneven or uncomfortable, they might be standing awkwardly to compensate.
And don’t forget the light! Changing the direction of light, or repositioning the dog in relation to it, can help define their shape and bring out muscle tone.
Small tweaks can make a big difference – don’t be afraid to experiment until it feels right.
"The dog keeps sitting."
Yep, super common – sitting is usually their default “I’m being good” behaviour.
Try using the walk-into-position-and-stop technique we mentioned earlier. Let them settle into a stand naturally, and be ready to grab the shot when they do. If they keep sitting, take a quick break – they might just need to burn off a bit of energy before trying again.
Or if they’ve been running around, perhaps they are just tired!
Also, check your own cues. Holding a treat too high or using a certain tone might accidentally be encouraging a sit. Keep your body language neutral and try luring them into position without triggering that automatic bum drop.
With a little patience (and maybe a few resets), you’ll get there!
Outside The Box
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There are heaps of ways to add creative flair to a standing pose – things that aren’t immediately obvious but can take your image from good to incredible.
Try shooting from behind, capturing the dog looking over their shoulder. This creates a sense of mystery or quiet contemplation and can also show off the beautiful shape of their body and tail. Bonus points if their ears are perked and their expression is engaged.
Play with eye contact. A direct stare down the lens is powerful, but try mixing it up.
A side glance can feel curious or cheeky, while a soft gaze into the distance can add an emotional or thoughtful vibe to your shot. The direction of their gaze can also help guide your composition.
Create dynamic symmetry by placing the dog in the centre of the frame and balancing them with architectural or natural elements – like a path, a row of trees, or even a fence line. Strong symmetry can give your image a graphic, intentional feel.
Get reflective. Use water, windows, polished floors, or even your phone screen to add a reflection. Reflections can emphasise the standing position, add depth, and give your image a more artistic, layered look.
Incorporate movement – without the dog moving. Think swaying grass, blowing leaves, or even falling snow. This contrast between a still subject and a moving environment can make your photo feel alive and full of energy.
Play with scale. Position the dog in a wide landscape to highlight their smallness in a big world, or go for the opposite by shooting from low with a wide-angle lens to make them feel larger than life.
Use colour or texture in the environment to add visual interest. A pop of colour behind the dog, or textures like peeling paint, mossy logs, or patterned tiles, can elevate a simple standing pose into something striking and memorable.
Get artsy with shadows and silhouettes. Shooting at golden hour or twilight can give you dramatic lighting to play with – casting long shadows or turning the dog into a silhouette for a more abstract feel.
Remember, a standing pose doesn’t have to be basic. With the right idea, it can be bold, beautiful, and totally unique.
